NORTH ETHIOPIA

Monasteries of Lake Tana >> Narga Selassie

Situated on the western shore of Dek Island , the largest on Lake Tana, Narga Selassie is the most elaborately decorated of all the lake monasteries. But the possible exception might be Ura Kidhane Mihret of Zeghie Peninsula. Built in the 18th century for Princess Mentewab (regent for Emperor lyasu II), the stone walls surrounding the compound, with their domed turrets, are typically Gonderine, and are particularly resemble in appearance to the walls surrounding the church next to Mentewab's palace at Kuskuam in the outskirt of outside Gonder city.

The main church is circular in shape and surrounded by stone pillars (one of which is decorated by an drawing of the pipe-puffing explorer James Bruce, a close associate of Mentewab). As with Ura Kidhane Mihret, the inner walls are covered from top to bottom with a riotous and captivating collection of paintings- most of which date to the 18th century.

In addition to the usual pictures of saints and their exploits, there is a painting of the church's founder lying face down before Mary and the Baby Jesus, probably the only modern portrayal of Mentewab to survive. Another attention-grabbing one shows a church on a fish, the latter about to be speared by an angel - markedly relating to a legend about a town on Lake Tana that was under attack by a big fish until the angel intervened.

Narga Selassie lies some three hours from Bahir Dar by boat, and an hour from Daga Istafanos. The monastery is practically next to the landing stage. There are two other monasteries on Dek Island, Arsema Semaetat and Mota Maryam, but neither is regularly visited by tourists.