NORTH ETHIOPIA

Monasteries of Lake Tana >> Daga Istifanos

The largest monastery on the lake, home to as many as 200 monks, Daga Istafanos lies on a small wedge-shaped island immediately east of the much larger Dek Island. The church, which lies at the peak of the island, was rebuilt after the original burnt to the ground in the 19th century .Tradition has it that Daga Istafanos is where the Ark of the Covenant was veiled during Ahmed Gragn's 16th-century occupation of Axum.

The main point of interest at Daga Istafanos today is the mausoleum alongside the church, which contains glass coffins holding the mummified remains of five Ethiopian emperors Yekuno Amlak (1268-93), Dawit (1428-30), Zara Yakob (1434-68), Susneyos (1607-32) and Fasilidas (1632-76) It is something of a mystery as to when, why and how the coffins ended up on this remote island, some say during the Mahdist incursion of Gonder in the late 19th century, others believe it to be during the Italian occupation.

The mummy of Fasilidas is the best preserved of the five, and his facial features are still dissonantly discernible. Several other treasures are stored in the mausoleum ;old crowns, a goatskin book with some line drawings dating from the 14th century, and two perfectly preserved 15th-century paintings of the Madonna . There is also a rather unusual monochrome painting of an angel on one of the inner doors.

Daga Istafanos lies about three hours by boat from Bahir Dar, 90 minutes from Tana Chirkos, and an hour from Narga Selassie. The walk from landing stage to the church is quite steep, and takes about 15 minutes, with a chance of encountering monkey along the way.